This is a huge deal for me. I have looked for years for an effective glue for PLA. Up to this point, clear fingernail polish was about the best I could find.
Ironically, I wasn't actually looking for a glue for PLA when I came across one that works. I was looking for a clear coat for prints that have been colorized using alcohol marker ink. And, I suspected that I would find it in the form of a glue. I was right.
The great news is that it can be found in grocery store, hardware stores and places like Target or Walmart. It's called Loctite GO2 All-Purpose Glue.
Loctite GO2 Glue
But, the added benefit was that Loctite GO2 also bonds PLA. Here are my 3 test samples.
Loctite GO2 As Clear Coat & Glue
The samples are (1) a 'swatch' of Tough 3D Ink that has been painted with both Spectrum Noir and Sharpie alcohol ink using the eBrush airbrush, (2) Tough 3D Ink glued to Premium PLA and (3) 2 pieces of standard PLA. In each case the glue worked as I had hoped.
Sample 1: Loctite GO2 does not smear alcohol ink and is flexible
The Tough PLA color did not run and the material remains as flexible as it was before coating. I applied the glue by pouring it onto the item and smoothing with an artists brush. The brush was cleaned with alcohol after the application. What can't be conveyed by an image is the interesting feel of the coating after it's dry. It has a rubberized feel to it that provides some non-slip 'grip' that is interesting.
The glue dried crystal clear. So, it does make for a great top coat to protect the alcohol inks.
Sample 3: Loctite GO2 joined different materials.
The simulated wax seal is M3D's Tough 3D Ink and the simulated coin is M3D's Premium PLA. The bond does take a while to set (30 minutes) and was fully cured in 24 hours. I was able to accelerate that by putting all the test pieces in a food dehydrator for a few hours.
Sample 3: Loctite GO2 joined two PLA pieces.
This is really a big find for me. None of the normal cements designed for plastic models ever worked all that well when used with PLA. So, in the past, I usually turned to clear fingernail polish. It worked; but, never seemed to be a great solution. The cool thing about Loctite GO2 is that the glue, itself, is flexible after it cures. So, while the bond is tight, there is some capability for give at the point of connection.
The bond can be broken if too stressed, so if you are planning to build a large 3D printed PLA bridge, I'd make sure the glue was liberally applied. While not a completely perfect solution, it works better than anything else I have tried.
If you have a glue that works with PLA, I'd love to hear about it.
Anyone that prints with PLA and Tough 3D Ink needs to understand that moisture in the ambient air tries to degrade and destroy these filaments. That's why filament is shipped in sealed bags with dry packs. Once we open the bags, the filament begins acting like a sponge soaking up the moisture in the air, That;s why I do not like buying large reels of filament. In fact, the filament reels chosen by M3D are a perfect size in my area, which is the moisture laden mid-Atlantic.
A few months ago I went on a quest to attack this issue. I came up with storage bins in which I can put drying agents along with the filament. But, the most significant discovery was that an ordinary food dehydrator can be used to draw the moisture out of our filaments.
After trying several, the one that I finally settled on as my favorite is the Presto Digital Dehydrator that can be purchased through Kohl's, Walmart and any number of similar stores.
Presto Digital Food Dehydrator
I prefer the digital version because I can more precisely set the temperature and running time.
But, now I have found an additional way to use this product with my 3D prints... for drying paint and curing glue!
While I spray aerosol paints outside and let them dry a bit before bringing them into the house, it is nice to be able to select a nice even temperature for the bulk of the curing time. Most aerosol paint directions say the paint will dry to touch within an hour and be fully cured in 24 hours. Using the food dehydrator ensures that will be the case no mater how moist the ambient air.
But, another application that has become important for is curing glue. As I have been testing clear coat candidates for the alcohol markers, it is clear glue that seems to offer the most promise. In fact, Loctite GO2 All-Purpose glue does not seem to smear alcohol marker colors and, as an added benefit seems to perform as an effective glue with Tough 3D Ink. The jury is still out on standard PLA.
And, that jury is the food dehydrator. I joined two pieces of PLA with Loctite GO2 and am letting it cure for at least 24 hours. That should give it the proper time and proper environment to work its best. I also have a 'swatch' of alcohol marker painted ABS-R running through the same drying cycle. So, in 24 hours we should have some results to report.
Before talking about a project that was a LOT of fun, I have to tell you where I got the idea.
Cathy Parlitsis of Stamps and Scrapbooks is a person that creates wonderful mixed media and paper crafting tutorials and videos. Her site and YouTube channel are well worth exploring.
I came across this video, where Cathy re-purposed some candy canes and blackboard ornaments to create some very cool food identifiers for a pot-luck dinner.
Working on the principle that no cool idea should go unappropriated, the idea came to me that a great 3D printed craft project that would involve colorizing 3D prints might be a personalized mini-chalkboard.
My first attempt involved creating and printing all the elements... chalkboard area and personalized hanging frame in a single printed object. But, of course, since I am masking challenged, that turned out to be more trouble than expected with the chalkboard paint finding its way into unwanted areas.
3D Printed Chalkboard - First Draft
I was able to clean it up a bit; but, clearly there had to be a better way to do this project. Plus, after proving that the chalkboard paint would work on a PLA surface, I really wanted to make the design to be more personal for the person for whom it was intended.
So, the design was broken into two pieces. The first piece, the chalkboard, was beveled to fit into the back of the second piece, the frame, which was expanded to make room for a name..
Inlay Trick #1 - Bevel Inlay Edges
While the chalkboard piece is inserted from the back, it is still essentially an inlay. Inlay is another way to put two different color prints together. The inlaid piece must fit into the host piece and there are some tricks to making it work more easily. The 3rd Gen Cube on which this project was printed has some differences in the size of borders and holes from the specified design when printed. We can make allowances for that; but, by beveling the inside and outside matching edges we know that the piece will fit even if our compensation estimates are off. If the edges are straight and we miscalculate by even .1mm, we might have to reprint the object. The beveled edge gives us a little margin for error.
Beveled Edges Widen the Margin of Error in Fit
Inlay Trick #2 - Resize (Expand) the inlay object when using it to cut the inlay channel or hole.
The trick in making sure the insert fits correctly is to use the inlay object to define the hole or channel into which it will be inserted. But, first, we resized the chalkboard by 1mm in the X and W directions. We do this because, typically, holes get slightly smaller and pegs (inserted objects) get slightly larger when 3D printed. Resizing the chalkboard ensures that the design of the hole will be 1mm bigger all around. But, when printed the opening of the hole will actually be a bit smaller.
After the hole is cut, we return the chalkboard to its original size for printing. I added 1mm to both the height and the width.
Then we print each object separately. With an independent chalkboard, colorizing it with chalkboard paint is easy and requires no mask.
For now, the frame remains uncolored. But, should we desire to add some color, it would be a lot easier than with a single design.
Once the paint dries, the pieces are taped or glued together. Since we may want to colorize the frames, for now it is taped. But, because, this was printed in PLA, clear fingernail polish would be the glue of choice when we turn to that option. Here is the result.
Mini-Chalkboard Colorized with Chalkboard Paint
It's easy and fun. Of course, I had to make two, with two granddaughters.
One single style black board and 2 new style chalkboards
The new two-piece style is better in every way. There is no danger of paint slipping under the masking as can be seen in the top sample. Names are added to the Master Design just before the object is saved for printing, allowing each one to be personalized with a unique name.
It can be hung using a suction cop attachment on a window or a small stand could be printed to hold it on a desk. In any case, I know they are going to be surprised and pleased the next time we see them!
Thank you Cathy!! I loved your original idea and it turned out to translate very well to 3D printing!
The only reason for the title of this post is to pretend that the content of the post is actually based on a sane idea. But, I can assure you that the genesis of the idea behind this article was simply serendipity and nutty curiosity.
There is a reason why I named this blog IdeaRoom3D. I wanted to focus on new ways we can use 3D printing in every aspect of our lives. And, I mean it when I say that "Any room can be an "Idea Room" with the addition of a 3D printer." Ideas are what 3D printing is all about.
It's just that some ideas are crazier than others. And, this is one of them.
I've always been of the opinion that USING a 3D printer for even the simplest of tasks is a LOT more rewarding than tinkering with a 3D printer. But, sometimes, to be able to expand what you can do, it becomes necessary to play around with the 3D printing process itself.
It should be obvious, from previous posts, that one area of life I intend to explore is using 3D printing for crafting. The crafting community is both enormous and creative. And, it's also expansive and widely diverse, making it a perfect community to benefit from personalized 3D designs.
In anticipation of going down one of the craft trails, I obtained a few embossing folder samples from Craftwell, hoping to see if embossing folders can be created by a 3D printer. (They can... as you will read later.) These folders were laying next to my M3D Micro. As I was removing a Tough 3D Ink part from the print table, which was covered with blue painter's tape, I realized that my gap was set at THE perfect value. The part came off easily; but, the bottom of the part was absolutely smooth!
In fact, the bottom of the part was more smooth than the top with this gap setting.
At that point, my brain, randomly making the connection between the embossing folders and smooth bottom surface, came up with a crazy idea. What would happen if I embossed the painter's tape and printed at the same gap? Would it emboss the bottom of the printed piece.
Well, here's the answer...
Effects Using Embossed Painter's Tape
As you can see, the pattern of the embossing folder was transferred to the painter's tape and, in turn, the pattern of the painter's tape was transferred to the bottom of the printed part.
But, the embossed pattern is relatively shallow. So, the resulting pattern on the printed piece is barely able to be seen unless, as I have done, we spray color ACROSS the printed piece so that the impressions are more easily visible.
Watermarking a printed page is the closest analogy that I could make that would give the idea anything close to a sane rationale. But, I have to tell you... it WAS fun to see that it actually did work. And, I am certain that the concept can be expanded with slightly deeper embossing folders.
One of the significant things about the pattern in the printed object is that it is on the underside of the piece. The tape becomes the support! There is no drooping caused by lack of support. I am certain this will come in handy in the future.
In the meantime, my brain is happy and proud that its crazy idea actually worked.
Update: I am seeing mixed results and I think it may have to do with how long an object has been drying or the use of a primer. It's not bad; but, I see some smearing on the piece that was primed. It could be that the primer does not absorb the dyes as completely as the ABS-R. We'll keep testing and let you know.
It was absolutely necessary to find a clear top coat that would prevent the alcohol marker dyes from running and perhaps ruin some one's clothes, etc. So, I have scoured the Internet for possible solutions. Little did I know that the solution was right in the little box that I carry with me when I take a 3D printer on the road.
I do want to thank the Krylon support team for going the extra mile in trying to help me find a suitable Krylon top coat directly over the alcohol markers. Unfortunately, their experience was the same as mine even when using water-based varnish.
However, that does NOT mean that Krylon or any of the other top coats that I tested cannot be used AFTER a first coat of something else has been applied FIRST.
Remembering that all of our ZCorp Z450 full-color powder printer parts are finished by dipping them in a glue that most of us generically know as "Super Glue", I decided to try to coat a previously painted surfboard with some super glue I had in my workbox.
While I now believe that any "Super Glue" could be used, I tested Loctite's Super Glue Ultra Gel in the mini tube. It was applied using a Q-tip.
NO SMEARING!!!!
I then waited for it to dry and applied a coat of Tamiya Clear Coat (TS-13) to see if the glue protected the alcohol colors underneath.
NO SMEARING!!!!
Here is the result.
Alcohol Colors Coated With Loctite Super Glue (Gel)
As you can see, the Q-Tip did pick up some residual surface color; but, not enough to cause any smearing whatsoever. Both Spectrum Noir and Sharpie pens had been used for this colorizing test. And, neither brand showed any signs of smearing.
While I think I could have stopped at the super glue coat, I decided to try spraying the piece with a top coat that had previously smeared the colors in earlier tests.
As you can see, the surfboard survived BOTH top coats.
I am VERY, VERY happy!
A lot of what I hope to do with 3D printing from a craft point of view comes under the general category of wearable art. Had I not been able to find a way to prevent the colors from being activated by accident, such as a drink spill, that would ruin a person's clothing, it would have prevented me from using the colorizing methods that I'm enjoying so much and life would be a lot harder.
So, this is a big breakthrough in our colorization tests. A really big breakthrough!
This is the image from the last post showing the starting place for today's result. The previously painted surfboard (printed on an M3D Micro in ABS-R) had been cleaned using an alcohol pad, sanded a bit using a Dremel Flap Wheel sanding tool and coated with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.
Primed Surfboard
It was left overnight to dry and then painted with Spectrum Noir and Sharpie alcohol markers using the Craftwell eBrush. Here is the result.
There is no overcoat. Yet, there is a sheen to the finish that gives it quite a nice look! I'm VERY pleased.
Three different pens were used for the red. They were DR2, DR4 and DR5. In the Spectrum Noir color system the "DR" indicates the basic color "Dark Red" and the numbers from 1 to 7 indicate lightest to darkest shades of the basic color. This makes shading and blending incredibly easy!
Spectrum Noir Color System
The entire surfboard was coated with DR2, the lightest I have, and then rimmed first with the slightly darker DR4 and finally with the DR5. Blending with the eBrush is just a matter of practice.
Due to the poor lighting it's difficult to see the transitions; but, they are there and being able to closely blend colors is a distinct value. Again, I am VERY pleased. I have been shooting for this exact result! Even the masking is better!
So, we are on the right track. Colorizing 3D prints is not only possible; but, highly successful when using the eBrush airbrush system with alcohol markers. While it definitely works directly on the print, using a primer has a very positive affect on the outcome.
Even so, I will continue to try to find an overcoat that will not smear the alcohol inks. It may be that canned sprays cannot be used due to the propellants used. But, there is a siphon adapter kit for the Craftwell airbrush which expands the overcoat possibilities.
eBrush Observations
I have been extremely pleased with how quickly I was able to gain experience with using the eBrush. The secret seems to be to move at the elbow rather than the wrist. And, to move from off of the object onto the object. Over spray has not been a problem. For the surfboard, it was confined to about 1-1/2" inches around the object. So, I have felt very comfortable just painting against an 8.5" x 11" piece of paper.
The best part is that you just pick it up, install a marker and start painting. There is the option to use the siphon adapter kit, which is the next step in the learning curve, it is not necessary for basic colorizing. I can't imagine an easier system to use for this application. I love it!
While I have not entirely given up on finding SOMETHING to coat a 3D object colorized with alcohol markers using the eBrush, things do look a bit bleak. Everything I have tried so far has ended up reactivating the colors and making them run.
But, like most quests, trying to find a clear coat AFTER the painting has moved me farther along in the journey to learn more about the process of colorizing 3D prints. Perhaps we are going about this in the wrong direction. If, in fact, trying to add gloss at the tail END of the process is not working out, then perhaps, we need to focus on the FRONT end of the process.
So, now I turn my attention to preparation before painting... whether that be sanding or other smoothing techniques or finding THE best undercoat.
Based on one quick test, focusing on preparation looks a LOT more promising. While any colorization has benefits, a combination of techniques might be even more beneficial and there is only one way to find out... testing.
Of course, it will take some time to ascertain how the alcohol colors behave over time when applied to a primer or other undercoat, like glue or even fingernail polish. We're off the trail here, so even the wildest of ideas is not out of bonds. I have workhorse printers and plenty of filament so it might be fun to run down a few rabbit trails in search of our goal. :)
The honor of the first complete test goes to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.
Tamiya FINE primer
For this test, I have used a previously painted part. The bulk of the color has first been removed using an alcohol pad. And I have used a Dremel tool called a Flap Wheel to sand the piece to a smoother finish.
Dremel Flap Wheel
The flap wheel was chosen because it was thought to be less likely to gouge the 3D printed piece and it seems to have been helpful. The Tamiya Fine Surface Primer was then applied. Here is the result.
Primed Surface
The primer appears semi-translucent, with the residual color from the original paint visible under the primer. The surface appears to be much smoother than before it had been sanded using the flap wheel. It also has the slightly glossy look that I was hoping it would have.
It's been about 6 hours since the primer was applied. But, I'll let it dry for 24 hours before applying the alcohol markers with the eBrush. I'll report the result in a new post. But, it really look promising!
UPDATE #1 - Fingernail polish (No)
Add clear fingernail polish to the potential top coats that reactivate the alcohol colors causing smearing. Life is tough. :)
I'm back again with the same surfboard that we had painted, ruined, repainted and ruined again trying hairspray as an overcoat.
The hairspray, unfortunately, was also alcohol based. So, like Edison did so many times before he discovered the lightbulb, I have another failure under my belt so you won't have to even go there. Forget Krylon Fixtif and forget Sebastian hairspray.
The good news is that using alcohol based markers, applied using the eBrush air brush, is a remarkably forgiving process when used on 3D printed plastics. This time, I dropped the surfboard into a bowl of alcohol in an inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and was able to get rid of the most recent smearing caused by the hairspray.
It was interesting to learn that the original dye WAS permanent, if slightly washed out. This tells me that the longer the marker colors sit on the surface of the 3D printed part, the deeper the dye is absorbed.
Once mostly cleaned, as apposed to absolutely cleaned, the result was a surface that could easily be repainted with new patterns. Here is the result. Again, the part is small and the contours make it a bit difficult for my inexperienced hands to apply masking with anything close to perfection.
3rd Paint Application
This actually was a better result than my first attempt to fix the smearing from the Fixatif disaster. What is really remarkable is that the red color, overall, is a lot smoother. I don't know if this is due to the fact that some of the red dye had been absorbed uniformly or maybe I'm getting the hang of using the eBrush a bit better.
I do know that I'm not only getting more comfortable using the eBrush; but, genuinely loving it. It is really satisfying to see a monochrome 3D print become something truly noticeable as color is applied. This is downright fun!
And, the fact that it turns out to be so forgiving is icing on the cake.
But, painting isn't the only way to use 3D printing for craft projects. I've had some great success at creating my own stencils and embossing folders! More to come... MUCH MORE!!!
I would like to find a clearcoat that I can use over alcohol marker colors with my 3D prints. Failures are as important to experimentation as is success. And, my first attempt was an epic fail.
Krylon Workable Fixatif - FAIL!
I picked up this brand primarily because I happened to be in a craft store and it was the only clearcoat I could find. Plus, the description on the can sounded somewhat promising to a person longing to hope for the best. (The ability to exercise denial is a family trait!)
But, it didn't take long to find out that Fixitif is NOT the right product for the job unless you want to use it as an uncontrolled 'blender'!
Krylon Fixatif - Color Smearing Alcohol Marker
What a mess!
But, the great thing about 3D printing is that I an easily print out another object and start over. But, it gets even better than that. It turns out that it isn't all that difficult to repair the damaged paint job by first cleaning the piece with a paper towel and 91% rubbing alcohol and then repainting.
That latter is not perfect; but, it's certainly 'good enough' in a pinch.
Put aside my poor masking alignment and take a look at the very same surfboard that I cleaned and repainted in about 15 minutes.
Repaint After Cleaning Up Fixatif Smearing
There is still some residual bleed from the clearcoat attempt. But, it isn't a total loss as it looked to be right after the Fixatif application.
So, the experiment contunues with new things to learn with each step forward. Epic Success
My granddaughters were by here yesterday and I was able to show them the eBrush and the Spectrum Noir markers. They each have their own unique artistic interests; but, both had a blast trying our the eBrush and experimenting with blending the Spectrum Noir colors on paper/ Yep. Christmas is going to be easy this year. I thought they would like both; but, my watching them have so much fun just confirms that these would be great gifts for them!
I am thankful to Craftwell and the eBrush airbrush system for changing the way I view markers... and, in a real sense, opening up a whole new creative world to me. Craftwell doesn't make markers; but, by including four Spectrum Noir markers with the eBrush, they did introduce them to me.
Before coming across the Spectrum Noir series of markers, I'd always thought of markers as expendable tools that one used and then discarded.
But, I now view the Spectrum Noir markers quite differently.
Refill & Refresh
The reason for this shift in perspective is that with the Spectrum Noir marker pens we are not only able to refill them; but, we can also swap out the original nibs with replacement nibs. Moreover, the nibs that we select for replacement can be a different type than the ones that come with the original marker!
To me, being totally unfamiliar with this concept in markers before the eBrush experiments, my ability to view marker tools as long term investments is like discovering a whole new technology!
Coloring Course
What is really remarkable is that knowing that the markers can be a long term investment also changes how I view USING the markers. I have always had permanent markers laying around that I used for various small tasks. But, I never really considered the fact that I could do way more with them if I wuld just invest some time in learning more about how to use them. They were simply utility items, not artistic tools to me. Again, all that has changed with my exposure to the Spectrum Noir markers. If they are of MECANICAL long term value, then they can be an ARTISTIC long term value.
The great news on this front is that the people that make the pens have also designed a free online course in how to use them! And, beyond that there are many excellent YouTube videos by individuals that use the markers that have been extremely helpful to me.
Personally, I plan to give a set of these markers as gifts this Christmas to the artists and budding artists in my own family. The fact that they can then take an online course in how to get the most out of them adds great value to that gift. They are going to love it!
Investment vs. Expendable Offers Wider Choices
The reason why I pursued the Spectrum Noir series of markers in the first place was because four were included with the eBrush. So, my focus is on their alcohol based line of pens. Some of the people in my family to whom I plan on giving a set of pens are also 3D printer users. But, in the same home there is another prospective recipient that is probably more exclusively interested in the 2D arts. She would probably appreciate watercolor markers more than permanent markers.
Normally, the idea of buying two different kinds of sets of markers, having roughly the same color sets, would be a silly idea to me. But, when viewed as long-term investments in a lifetime of artistic expression the concept makes perfect sense. So, this Christmas a single household will find two sets of two differently based markers under the tree. And, I am excited about that.
It's Wonderful to Be Introduced to New Worlds at ANY Age
Sometimes life is like a rolling snowball in a cartoon... a small experience just keeps on growing bringing with it new ideas and possibilities. I feel that way about this 3D coloring project. I simply wanted to add value to 3D prints by being able to colorize them. But, that not only opened a whole new door for me; but, potentially, for other members of my family!
And, that makes also makes me excited about a new line of products that Spectrum Noir is launching on August 30, 2016... Spectrum Noir Colorista.
The Colorista line is described like this:
Spectrum Noir Colorista is a collection of alcohol markers, wax-based
colored pencils, paper pads & card-making kits designed specifically
for enthusiasts of adult coloring. We’re bringing you the highest
quality coloring pads, including colorable foils and glitter,
complemented by an array of tantalizing coloring pencils and alcohol
markers to take your coloring to the next level!
Now, THAT sounds like FUN! I certainly plan to watch!!!
When I look back over my life I see one long series of very cool opportunities and experiences that seemed to have evolved one after another. And, I can already see that becoming acquainted with the eBrush and Spectrum Noir is another one of those pivitol moments that ensures that life never becomes boring. I love it!!!
While I do not believe that I have the proper colors to produce all the skin tones to match the facial characteristics of the cadets that I teach, I do have a wide enough range to at least experiment with slightly darker skin tones. And that is a logical progression from lesson #4.
Here is the result using the pens available in the Spectrum Noir"Pale Hues" color pack. The newly colored print is on the right.
Facial Tinting Compared
As you can see, using the exact same colors that were used for face #1, by changing the relative mix we can come up with a strikingly different and pleasant result. It is also important to note that the face on the right was printed in M3D's ABS-R, not to be confused with regular ABS. So, we now have at least two surfaces that take the Spectrum Noir markers used in the eBrush airbrush system!
As always, there were new lessons to be learned in the process of colorizing our 2nd face.
Mistakes Are Not Fatal
The first is one that we repeat over and over to our 3D printing students... "Your failures are not final!"
While it can be difficult to simply touch up a piece if we spray too close or at too high an air pressure that causes blemishes, it is very easy to clean off the color for a fresh start. To do this simply use a simple alcohol pad. I ended up having to start over twice. But, cleaning the piece was very quick and the paint process, itself, is relatively quick. So, I didn't feel frustrated by the restart. It was simply a second (and third) chance to do better, learning from the reasons behind the blemishes.
I don't know how long after the marker dye is applied that cleanup can be done so easily. I suspect that the longer it stays on the 3D printed part, the more likely is dyes the piece. But, if the alcohol pad is used right after the color application it is very easy to remove it and start over.
Some Masking Techniques Are Better Than Others
One of my goals in this step of the process of learning was to assess different methods of masking. Three different techniques were used.
Liquid Masking
Frisket Film
Artist's Tape
Liquid Masking
The first product I tested is FineLine Masking Fluid Pen - Supernib Fine Tip.
FINELINE Masking Fluid
It has a needle applicator and I used it to mask the hair, eyes and mouth while painting the face. I worked quite well for those applications. But, it takes quite a while to dry enough to be able to commence spraying. Once the painting is done, it's very easy to remove. I can see using it for masking very small depressed features; but, for most masking needs it isn't the best choice.
Frisket Film
I had high hopes for Frisket Film which is heavily used in the craft community for a wide variety of coloring techniques. It's a very thin film with a light tack backing.
However, in practice, I found it less than impressive for this particular colorizing project. The tacky back doesn't seem to stick as well to plastic as it does to paper. And, while it should cut very easily and cleanly, that was not my experience thus time. I may be that I need a new set of blades for my Exacto knife. So, I'm not dismissing out of hand; but, the tape actually was a better choice this time around.
Artist Tape and/or Grafic Tape
This class of tape is available in a wide variety of colors and widths.
Masking tape for artists start 1/8 wide abd can typically be found in widths between 1/4" to 1". Chartpak's graphic tape is available in much thinner widths, such as 1/32". Years ago eve art store carried these tapes; but, you may find that your local store doesn't carry the smaller widths. However, they are available online. For now, I have 1/8" and up. But, I definitely want the smaller widths as well.
For me, the most reliable making technique continues to be artist tape. While I have some blue masking tape in 1/8" and 1/4", I prefer tape specifically labeled "Artist Tape" or "Drafting Tape'. Conclusion
I am thoroughly enjoying experimenting with the eBrush and especially enjoy using it with the Spectrum Noir markers. While I certainly am still in the novice category, I am becoming more confident with each new experiment. There is no question that the investment is worth the time and money that it takes to get started, There is no comparison between a monochrome print and a colorized print when it comes to perceived value and aesthetics. Even the slightest amount of coloring makes a difference.
My next project looks at creating custom designer buttons using M3D's ABS-R, the eBrush and Spectrum Noir markers.
This afternoon, I was pleased to hear my wife tell me that I'd just gotten a package. I've been waiting for more Spectrum Noir markers to arrive and they are now here.
This gives me a set of markers that can be used for flesh tones and I was anxious to try them out.
I decided that the most appropriate test for our purposes was to create an object that the cadets are more than capable of designing. Essentially, it is a face that is created using different levels of extruded areas. The nose is a simple sphere.
Face - Extrude Construction
I printed the object in both ABS-R and Tough 3D Ink on an M3D Micro 3D printer. I rightly uspected that Tough 3D Ink, being softer and flexible might take the marker dye a bit more smoothly when blending colors.
While my skills at using the eBrush airbrush are at the most crude level, it is plain that coloring the object does, indeed, add value to it. In person, the object looks a LOT better than the photo. The marks and flaws are less evident and so is the 3D printing pattern in the hair.
Here is an iPhone photo of the colorized face:
Colorized M3D Tough 3D Ink Face
90% of the face is flat. Only the nose is not flat. So, all of the appearance of shading and contouring is done with the eBrush using different colors and distances.
As I have stated before, I am no artist. And, I've only had about 30 minutes total working experience with the Craftwell eBrush system. So, I am extremely pleased with this result. I will attempt the ABS-R version tomorrow. Quick Observations
It is important not to apply too much color at any one time. And, I find using a lower air speed better than using a higher air pressure. I believe that this is because the markers are intended for paper and the dye does not absorb into the plastic as it does with paper. A high pressure, therefore, can actually blow around the undried dye and create patchiness in the color.
Aiming is still an issue. It's important not to use the marker direction as our guide. It is the pen, itself that must be pointed at the working area. This really takes some constant attention.
I really love the Spectrum Noir markers. They work beautifully with the eBrush. So far, I have only attempted to use the wide end of the pen; but, I am told that the pointed end can also be used. I have also learned more about the Spectrum Noir system. Not only are the markers refillable; but, the nibs can be replaced. So, the markers are not the typical use and discard markers that most 3D printer folks have used.
Masking is an absolute necessity. I used tape cut with an Exacto knife. But, I think I want to experiment with creating 3D printed pieces to accomplish the masking task. Thus I would have a 3D printed piece that each feature while the others would be printed. Moment of Inspiration lends itself to doing this task very, very well. More on this later.
Lastly, while neither the eBrush nor the Spectrum Noir markers are intended to be used with 3D printed materials and there are some drying and blending issues not found with paper, the potential for adding value is great enough to continue to test and experiment. Permanency is still a question; but, that is true for standard watercolor painting as well. We're trying to find a safe clear coat to help with that issue.
In summary, here is a side-by-side comparison of the plain white print in M3D's Tough 3D Ink and the colorized version.
Plain & Colorized Face Compared
Yes, it's going to take effort and a fair amount fo practice to increase our skills; but, even relying on a bad iPhone image, there is no question which one is the most pleasant to enjoy and appreciate.
While waiting on the additional Spectrum Noir markers to arrive, I thought I would explore a slightly different aspect of 3D printing and colorizing... creating stencils that can used with the eBrush and other coloring techniques.
As a sample, I created a small template, using Moment of Inspiration, that features four bunnies. It could not have been easier. In fact, I find the line drawing tools, that I used to create the bunny cutouts to be far easier to learn to use than those in 2D applications like Inkscape.
3D Created Stencil Design
As printed, being a first test, it's rather small. It's just 60mm x 60mm. However, since 3D images are easily resized either in the design application or in the printer's software, it is readily scalable. Once it's designed it can be printed up to the maximum size allowed by the 3D printer.
A feature of this stencil that isn't common to off the shelf stencils is the inclusion of handles on two corners to aid in placing and removing the stencil.
Since I simply laid the stencil on the test page and did not hold it down tightly, there is some slight softness on the sprayed result. I used a TB8 blue Spectrum Noir pen with the lowest setting on the eBrush. Here is the result.
Bunnies Created with 3D Printed Stencil
Obviously, I would have made sure that the overspray outside of the stencil was masked if I were doing this in for a finished project; but, since this is merely a test to show the concept, I simply laid the stencil on the paper and fired away with the eBrush. Also, since the bunnies are relatively small, I didn't bother trying to feather the colors, etc.
I also printed the stencil with the ABS-R material in the printer at the time of printing. And, I used the lowest resolution settings for the print job. I think I would probably prefer to use a flexible material, like M3D's Tough 3D Ink and print it at a higher resolution with subsequent stencils.
Unique Capabilities of 3D Print Stencils
A Unique Feature of 3D Printed Stencils is that we can bridge gaps without obstructing the ability of the eBrush to reach every area. Suppose, for instance that we wanted to create a companion stencil that permitted us to print a border around each bunny. With a 3D printer, we can create bridges that hold a 'mask' that blocks the spray for the main bunny and keep that mask in place using 3D printed bridges in the form of arches that provide enough room underneath to allow the spray to fill the new stencil gaps. In this case, it's probably best to use a hard ABS-R or PLA material to create the mask.
Border Stencil with 3D Printed Connectors
In this case, we could lay this second stencil right back on top of the position of the first stencil and use it to spray a black border around each bunny!
While a border is the simplest application of this capability it goes well beyond that. As we move forward with colorizing 3D images, we'll see that we can create 3D contoured masks that wrap around our 3D printed objects. I can envision an unlimited number of masking techniques that are made possible by 3D printing... especially when using flexible materials as the mask!
The more I ponder the merger of the craft arts with the 3D printed arts, the more excited I become about the benefits to both!
As I said, for better or worse, you will be along for the ride as I explore the concept of colorizing 3D prints with Craftwell's eBrush airbrush system.
Before I post an image, I need to remind you that (1) I have never done this before, (2) I do not have have all the Spectrum Noir pens that I need to do this right (And, yes, I now know they work the best!), (3) I'm old and my eyesight is probably not as good as yours and lastly (4) the local art supply store was closed by the time I got by so I am using the wrong masking tape.
What do I think?
Well, aside from all the caveats above, I'm absolutely sure I'm on to something good. While it clearly makes a difference which markers you use, the overall experience is a LOT of fun and the eBrush perferms just as I'd hoped. The major problems I ran into involved using a set of markers that were locally available that (1) did not flow as well as the Spectrum Noir and (2) tended to dry too slowly and run. You can see this on the light switch plate. The dark blue and red were the Spectrum Noir. The black and gold were Sharpie Fine Point, which worked well and the lighter blues were Chartpak AD, which I will be glad to leave behind. The First Attempt
I decided to try something that would take a minimal of color feathering for this first try. The goal was to create a custom light switch plate for a person that liked to surf. So, a white plastic light switch plate was painted to roughly simulate the surf. (Roughly being the operative word!) And, a surf board 90mm x 20mm was created in Moment of Inspiration, printed on an M3D Micro in white ABS-R, colorized using the eBrush system and glued to the light switch plate.
For better or worse here is my first try,
Airbrushed 3D Print / Light Switch Plate
First, let's talk about the switch plate coloring. The dark blue Spectrum Noir worked exactly as I had hoped. I used a piece of torn paper as a mask to simulate the waves. But, since the dark blue was the only blue that I had from Spectrum Noir, I picked up some lighter blues in the Chartpak AD line. Things fell apart fast. It was tough getting the correct spray and then I ran into the problem of running and splotching. Even so, the affect was modestly successful for a first attempt.
As for the 3D printed surfboard, it's obvious that I need to do a better job of applying the masking tape. Some of that has to do with the only tape I could find this evening, which was actually intended for fabrics. The tape didn't exactly handle the contours all that well and there was some color bleed under the tape. I know I can find better tape at the art supply store.
The Red Spectrum Noir was a dream to use. But, some of that was probably because I cheated and sprayed the whole thing solid rather than attempting some color feathering. It dried very quickly.
The black and gold Sharpie also worked extremely well. The issues I have with the stripes are not an eBrush or marker problem, they are a user taping problem.
I intend to coat the entire surf board with a clear gloss of some type. After all, most surf boards have a nice deep gloss finish. But, first I need to find out from Spectrum Noir what kind of gloss spray paint is safest for their colors. I don't want to cause the colors to run just because I want to apply gloss.
Next Step
For the next step, I think I will try some color feathering. It dawns on me that we can print our own stencils with our 3D printers. So, I have widened the surf board and created an overlay that will mask the center of the board as I apply color.
I will also go by the local art store and pick up some more appropriate masking tape! Conclusion
It's very clear to me that we can add value to our 3D prints by using the eBrush airbrush system to colorize them. While it IS going to take some effort to become an expert with it, I now know that it is well worth the effort. I also know that it HAS to be a lot easier to use an airbrush system that replies on markers than to try to get the right paint consistency using a traditional airbrush system. It's also a lot easier to clean up after we're done using it. All I had to do was throw away the tape and the scap paper used while painting!
Moreover, this is going to be a BIG hit with our cadets (and my grandchildren). We won't colorize every 3D print; but. just having this capability to use when appropriate is going to be VERY popular with them. So, the eBrush not only adds value to the print, itself; but, to the class.
This is an introduction to a new series that I am planning to write about colorizing our 3D prints. There are several ways we can accomplish this, like using paints or fingernail polish. But, I want to go beyond these methods to something I have always wanted to try... air brushing.
Due to my daughter's work with ceramics, we have several traditional air brushes around here. But, I have always been too intimidated by the need to properly mix the paints or fingernail polishes and the tedious clean-up they require to try them. Besides, I do NOT consider myself an artist.
I needed something that wasn't so intimidating with which to start. And, I have found it.
Craftwell eBrush
The eBrush by Craftwell is a unique air brushing system that is able to use MARKERS instead of traditional paint. Before posting a link, let me warn you to turn down the sound if at work! The link fires up some lively music. eBrush Page
The eBrush uses a unique siphoning action to draw ink out of any number of brands of markers. The best way to introduce it is to show you a video by one of Craftwell's design team.
As you can see, this is a remarkable tool. I have briefly tested the eBrush using the 3 included Spectrum Noir markers on M3D's ABS-R and Tough 3D Ink. It works beautifully and dries both quickly and permanently.
Obviously, it's going to take practice to get good at it. But, how hard will it be? I don't know yet.
But, I suspect that using Spectrum Noir's color matching system is going to help make it easier. In any case, easy or tough, you will be along for the ride. If a non-artist, like me, can use the eBrush to bring some color to my 3D prints then rest assured that you can too.
Spectrum Noir Marker System
I had never heard of Spectrum Noir markers before receiving 3 of hem with the eBrush system. The eBrush comes with 6 different adapters that allow it to use other markers, like Copic, Chartpak AD, Prismacolor, Sharpie Fine & Tombow. But, a little research into the Spectrum Noir series led me to believe that is the brand with which I want to start in earnest.
The reason why I came to that conclusion is that they offer a variety of six pen color packs that range from pale to intense for each matched color set. For instance, if I am trying to colorize a face from a 3D print make from a 3D scan, I have the benefit of 6 different skin tones to use, which should make it easier to blend colors for facial features. Moreover, each marker has two tips... one fine point and the other wide. We should be able to modify and enhance our airbrushed colorization with direct use of the pen's points if needed. They also have a specific colorless "blending" pen for the task of blending ANY colors together. Very cool.
While this video shows how to use the Spectrum Noir color system for blending with 2D drawings, I think it is worth watching because it makes it plain to see that we should be able to augment the air brushed results with the two different pen tips in each marker.
Again, I'm waiting for some color packs to arrive so I can't be definitive as yet. But, I am confident that having matching color sets with which to work is going to go a long way in helping me get a handle on using the eBrush to successfully colorize my 3D prints.
Things I know Now
The only things I know for sure at this point are:
Alcohol based markers work very well with M3D's Tough 3D Ink (flexible) and ABS-R. I'm assuming the same is true for regular PLA and Chameleon, which should make for some very fun and interesting colorizing possibilities.
The eBrush system is a whole lot easier for a novice than a traditional airbrush system would be. It is not nearly as intimidating.
I want to test it with our Z450 powder prints as well as our FDM prints. I have a feeling that the eBrush can be used to touch up the colors on our prints from 3D scans using the Sense and RealSense scanners, which produce relatively low resolution color maps.
In any case, I think it's going to be a great adventure and one I am looking forward too with great expectations. Plus, it brings 3D printing closer to the world of crafting... and that, in and of itself, is reason enough to travel down this path and expands the practical applications for 3D printed objects into entirely new areas... like sewing and holiday decorating!
I'm going to ask you to be a bit patient with me. It may take a little while before the next article in this series appears since I'm going to have to put in some serious practice time and I'm waiting for the Spectrum Noir markers to arrive. However, while waiting for the Spectrum Noir pens, I might just try my hand at using metallic Sharpies since I can buy them locally. If so, I'll let you know.
